Summer is almost over and it’s never too late to learn how to surf on some of California’s finest waves-right here in our own front yard.
The film “Point Break,” starring Keanu Reeves, left many aspiring surfers just dying to move out to California and to learn how to surf. The harsh reality of the matter is Keanu Reeves is not cool. If people want to learn to surf, they have to do it right and not be a “barney” out in the water.
The first step in learning how to surf in this town is knowing what makes it such an ideal place to get started.
Santa Barbara is located between two geographic features blocking the Pacific groundswells from affecting the city. The Channel Islands and Point Conception produce swell shadows that shade Santa Barbara from both the North Pacific and South Pacific groundswells, creating small, easy surf, perfect for a beginner.
“Santa Barbara is a great place to learn,” said Davey Smith, former local professional surfer and owner of Davey Smith’s Surf Academy. “There are plenty of easy point waves that are simple to learn on and that give you a chance, especially in summer.”
As a beginning surfer gets comfortable with the waves, the winter is a picture perfect season for a more challenging surf experience.
In the meantime, it’s important to stick to the easy stuff. The big waves will always be there when it’s time to take the challenge. There are plenty of simple breaks in this city that can hold a surfer over. Some are right in Santa Barbara’s own backyard.
Leadbetter Point, located directly across the street from City College’s West Campus, is one of the best spots to learn. Small, soft-rights peel off the point and create a friendly wave for any new surfer.
“Leadbetter is a great place to learn,” Smith said. “The vibe is friendly among other surfers, and it is a good long board spot.”
For those prospective surfers who live in Isla Vista are in luck. Devereux Point, also known as Coal Oil Point, is located just a short walk from Del Playa Drive and is one of the best beginners’ spots around.
“Devereux is such an excellent spot,” said local surfboard shaping legend David Puu. “That is where I learned. I recommend it to anyone.”
Santa Barbara breaks are fickle however, and Smith suggests heading south towards Ventura if someone gets frustrated.
“It takes a good swell to get these places going,” Smith said. “When there is no swell in town I usually do my teaching down at the Ventura border.”
Knowing where to surf is only half of what one needs to begin. Being outfitted in the proper gear is the next step in a spectacular surfing experience. What is the best way to go about this? There are several options.
The best type of board for a beginner is a longer one. Anything from eight to nine feet allows the proper stability and forgiveness needed while learning to surf.
“Most beginners come in asking for a used long board or fun shape,” said Doug Yartz, owner of Surf Country surf shop in Goleta. “I am asked about three times a day for those boards, and five times a day on weekends.”
The long board allows for a relaxed, stable ride. A fun shape is slightly shorter in length, and provides more maneuverability, similar to a short board, Yartz said.
For those budget conscious surfers, a trip to any surf or second second hand sports shop for a used board is in order. For a surfer with more cash to spend, a consultation with a custom shaper can make a board precisely designed to fit any surfing style.
“My thing is to observe and listen to the person to absorb what he or she wants,” said Dave Johnson, local shaper and owner of Progressive Surfboards. “Older guys need boards to adjust with their age and weight. I make boards to fit the rider.”
Once a surfer has the gear and can look the part, the sky is the limit.
“Once you have that first long board and wetsuit, you’re pretty much set for a few years,” Smith said.
An aspiring rider should be careful not to succumb to the commercial aspects of surfing. Image has become a big part of the sport. The appearance has claimed many would-be-wave-riders who just don’t have the patience to learn, or would rather just pose as a surfer.
“This is not an easy sport to learn,” Yartz said. “Patience is first and foremost the most important thing. It’s hard work.”
Advice for future surfers: get out there and have fun. Be patient enough to experience something that could change your life for the better, but do it in style. No one wants to see Keanu Reeves out in the water with a huge, pink surfboard.
Santa Barbara’s perfect surfing scenery leaves us with no excuse other than to give the waves a test ride.
“We pay so much to live here, why not enjoy it,” Yartz said. “Once you do it, you’re hooked.”